But it does no harm if there is an almost undetectably slight gap between that flange and the receiver face. The barrel illustrated has a flange, and many gunsmiths fitting barrels regard perfection as both that flange and the rear of the barrel being tight fits. But this appears to be a Mauser 98 rifle, probably the 24, in which the tightening is of the rear of the barrel against the internal stop-ring. There are earlier Yugoslav Mausers which probably tighten up with the barrel shoulder against the receiver face, and for these a shallow saw-cut into the barrel, just as close to the receiver as you can get it, will loosen it up nicely. What you have should enable you to do the job, except possibly for a reamer. the way most barrels are set up the torque of the bullet being fired wants to tighten the barrel as a safety measure but you still want it tight to begin with. you want that bugger tighter than hell or it will try to move and if you sights are already on it it causes problems. after you install the barrel and get the chamber where you need it then put a small witness line on the face of the receiver and the barrel and keep an eye on it the first few times you fire it and see if it moves. Is this going to be the old military sights or is it going to get a scope? if it is the old iron sights then it is no big deal, if it is getting a scope this brings in a whole new set of problems that can arise as the barrel, receiver, and scope rail must be perfectly in line. when this happens you need to lightly skin the face of the barrel till the chamber tightens up. i always chambered mine to where the go gauge would just go with a little drag for extra tightness and on the final few turns of the reamer i would just allow the reamer to spin with the weight of the reamer or very little pressure so as to not remove any metal but to remove any burrs that might develop in the chamber that might mess with the gauge accuracy.īut the only time i think you would need a lathe to change the barrel is if the chamber is too deep and the no go gauge goes. when reaming you also must keep the shavings clear and if you ever let the reamer back up off the face of the chamber you must clean the shavings out or a shaving can get caught between the reamer flute and the chamber and it can cut a grove in the chamber which will allow the brass to flow into when firing and can mess up your brass or make ejection and extraction problematic. all shavings must be out of the chamber when checking. When using the reamer take your time and check the go and no go frequently as it is very easy to go too far.
0 kommentar(er)
